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Four, five years ago,
I stopped competing altogether, and once I discovered the alternative world
of free surfing, I followed that path. So now, as a free surfer,
I've turned this bus into a camping van so I can travel around Japan, and learn from the locals
about various Japanese traditions as well as immerse myself in nature
I stopped competing altogether, and once I discovered the alternative world
of free surfing, I followed that path. So now, as a free surfer,
I've turned this bus into a camping van so I can travel around Japan, and learn from the locals
about various Japanese traditions as well as immerse myself in nature
Full Transcript
00:00:01.000 --> 00:00:05.026
Four, five years ago,
I stopped competing altogether, and
00:00:05.338 --> 00:00:11.991
once I discovered the alternative world
of free surfing, I followed that path.
00:00:12.303 --> 00:00:16.263
So now, as a free surfer,
I've turned this bus into a camping van
00:00:16.039 --> 00:00:17.081
so I can travel around Japan,
00:00:17.975 --> 00:00:21.855
and learn from the locals
about various Japanese traditions
00:00:21.938 --> 00:00:24.358
as well as immerse myself in nature.
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Movie Summary
The unique and wonderful surf culture in Japan, highlighting the dramatic push and pull between convention and innovation.