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I mean, I was, like, on
an emotional rollercoaster all the time. A lot of people told me,
"You're gambling." I said, "Yeah, I'm gambling." I don't even know if I'm gonna get waves
an emotional rollercoaster all the time. A lot of people told me,
"You're gambling." I said, "Yeah, I'm gambling." I don't even know if I'm gonna get waves
Full Transcript
00:00:01.000 --> 00:00:04.034
I mean, I was, like, on
an emotional rollercoaster all the time.
00:00:04.587 --> 00:00:06.497
A lot of people told me,
"You're gambling."
00:00:06.589 --> 00:00:07.839
I said, "Yeah, I'm gambling."
00:00:08.466 --> 00:00:10.176
I don't even know if I'm gonna get waves.
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Movie Summary
The unique and wonderful surf culture in Japan, highlighting the dramatic push and pull between convention and innovation.