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I really didn't want to surf.
But my dad loved big waves, and he would take
on really big waves in Hawaii. So I thought surfing was dangerous,
and scary
But my dad loved big waves, and he would take
on really big waves in Hawaii. So I thought surfing was dangerous,
and scary
Full Transcript
00:00:01.000 --> 00:00:04.058
I really didn't want to surf.
But my dad loved big waves,
00:00:04.838 --> 00:00:08.917
and he would take
on really big waves in Hawaii.
00:00:09.175 --> 00:00:12.515
So I thought surfing was dangerous,
and scary.
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Movie Summary
The unique and wonderful surf culture in Japan, highlighting the dramatic push and pull between convention and innovation.