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I think the best wave
I ever rode was Pipeline. I'd say the size of the waves
was 10 feet plus. When I took off,
I wanted to turn to the side but I couldn't because it was going
way too fast and the wave was huge. I went down to the bottom instead
and did a bottom turn, and from that moment on,
I entered a completely silent world
I ever rode was Pipeline. I'd say the size of the waves
was 10 feet plus. When I took off,
I wanted to turn to the side but I couldn't because it was going
way too fast and the wave was huge. I went down to the bottom instead
and did a bottom turn, and from that moment on,
I entered a completely silent world
Full Transcript
00:00:01.000 --> 00:00:05.004
I think the best wave
I ever rode was Pipeline.
00:00:05.963 --> 00:00:08.713
I'd say the size of the waves
was 10 feet plus.
00:00:09.967 --> 00:00:12.887
When I took off,
I wanted to turn to the side but
00:00:12.097 --> 00:00:16.047
I couldn't because it was going
way too fast and the wave was huge.
00:00:19.101 --> 00:00:22.391
I went down to the bottom instead
and did a bottom turn,
00:00:22.479 --> 00:00:25.309
and from that moment on,
I entered a completely silent world.
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Movie Summary
The unique and wonderful surf culture in Japan, highlighting the dramatic push and pull between convention and innovation.