This is not a thing where somebodycan decide it for you. It's something you have to...
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This is not a thing where somebody
can decide it for you. It's something you have to decide
for yourself. Koji decided for himself
that he was going to surf. When everyone else
was wondering what to do, he said, "I need this in my life." "I lost my house,
lost my shop, lost my job. "If I lose surfing,
would this be my life?"
can decide it for you. It's something you have to decide
for yourself. Koji decided for himself
that he was going to surf. When everyone else
was wondering what to do, he said, "I need this in my life." "I lost my house,
lost my shop, lost my job. "If I lose surfing,
would this be my life?"
Full Transcript
00:00:01.000 --> 00:00:03.046
This is not a thing where somebody
can decide it for you.
00:00:03.793 --> 00:00:06.713
It's something you have to decide
for yourself.
00:00:07.632 --> 00:00:12.472
Koji decided for himself
that he was going to surf.
00:00:14.347 --> 00:00:18.267
When everyone else
was wondering what to do,
00:00:18.434 --> 00:00:21.684
he said, "I need this in my life."
00:00:22.355 --> 00:00:27.485
"I lost my house,
lost my shop, lost my job.
00:00:27.568 --> 00:00:32.788
"If I lose surfing,
would this be my life?"
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Movie Summary
The unique and wonderful surf culture in Japan, highlighting the dramatic push and pull between convention and innovation.
