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We didn't talk much at first,
but the second time we met, there weren't many people in the water,
maybe just three or four, and we were on the same peak and she caught
a great wave, so I told her she was a good surfer and we started chatting about our boards,
and so on
but the second time we met, there weren't many people in the water,
maybe just three or four, and we were on the same peak and she caught
a great wave, so I told her she was a good surfer and we started chatting about our boards,
and so on
Full Transcript
00:00:01.000 --> 00:00:03.071
We didn't talk much at first,
but the second time we met,
00:00:04.336 --> 00:00:09.596
there weren't many people in the water,
maybe just three or four, and
00:00:09.925 --> 00:00:14.225
we were on the same peak and she caught
a great wave,
00:00:14.472 --> 00:00:18.522
so I told her she was a good surfer
00:00:19.056 --> 00:00:21.089
and we started chatting about our boards,
and so on.
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Movie Summary
The unique and wonderful surf culture in Japan, highlighting the dramatic push and pull between convention and innovation.