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The waves break
in very shallow water, so if you don't land
just right, you can
really get bent. They come out with shovels
at low tide and dig you
out of the sand. Usually on a big day,
it's a very short ride.
It's kind of a big drop. Occasionally someone
gets a long ride. Here's some kind of record
for a big day. I can't figure out whether
this guy has a bellyboard... or is bodysurfing... or has rigor mortis
of the stomach
in very shallow water, so if you don't land
just right, you can
really get bent. They come out with shovels
at low tide and dig you
out of the sand. Usually on a big day,
it's a very short ride.
It's kind of a big drop. Occasionally someone
gets a long ride. Here's some kind of record
for a big day. I can't figure out whether
this guy has a bellyboard... or is bodysurfing... or has rigor mortis
of the stomach
Full Transcript
00:00:01.000 --> 00:00:03.101
The waves break
in very shallow water,
00:00:03.136 --> 00:00:07.999
so if you don't land
just right, you can
really get bent.
00:00:07.039 --> 00:00:10.842
They come out with shovels
at low tide and dig you
out of the sand.
00:00:13.513 --> 00:00:17.716
Usually on a big day,
it's a very short ride.
It's kind of a big drop.
00:00:17.075 --> 00:00:20.385
Occasionally someone
gets a long ride.
00:00:20.419 --> 00:00:22.788
Here's some kind of record
for a big day.
00:00:22.822 --> 00:00:25.991
I can't figure out whether
this guy has a bellyboard...
00:00:26.999 --> 00:00:28.001
or is bodysurfing...
00:00:28.001 --> 00:00:29.995
or has rigor mortis
of the stomach.
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Movie Summary
The crown jewel to ten years of Bruce Brown surfing documentaries. Brown follows two young surfers around the world in search of the perfect wave, and ends up finding quite a few in addition to some colorful local characters.